In the saddle

FASHION:Six Irish equestrians display the finery of their sporting attire and explain the dress codes to DEIRDRE MCQUILLAN. Photographs: Bryan O'Brien

FORGET FEATHERS, FURBELOWS and the flimsy trappings on spectator turf, the real style-setters in the field are the riders, whose tailored uniforms, emphasised by good posture, are both practical and elegant.

It’s a streamlined look that never dates, some styles going back centuries, and a constant influence on fashion.

International brands such as Hermès, Gucci and Ralph Lauren built their fortunes and reputations on equestrian style and there are always high-street counterparts. Slim, stretch trousers and knee-high boots (a combination that lengthens body and leg), a well-cut jacket and a crisp white shirt are key elements when designers reference the world of equitation. Long before boyfriend dressing became trendy, Coco Chanel, slim as a racehorse herself, rode and hunted, and was at home in masculine attire.

Here six Irish riders, involved in differing equestrian pursuits, describe their sporting gear and dress rules.

MARY ROTHWELL

Side-saddle rider from Tinahely, Co Wicklow

A secondary-school teacher from a family active in equestrian sports, Rothwell started riding side-saddle while she was a boarder at Kilkenny College. A friend invited her to her home and encouraged her to try.

“I had to walk, trot and canter and I just fell in love with it,” she says. A member of the Side-Saddle Association, she competes at agricultural shows and for the past eight years has been a competitor at the RDS. Side-saddle dress, called a habit, has a long history and dates back to the 16th century.

"My jacket and apron [the habit] are replica copies of an old one I used to borrow. They are made with 100 per cent navy wool I got in England and handmade by Alice Connolly of Clonmore in Carlow. With them I wear navy jodhpurs by Imelda Lynch from Galway ( thetackroom.ie) in the same colour, a cream or ivory shirt and silk stock with tiepin.

“The waistcoat can be Tattersall check, red or traditional lemon yellow. The leather riding boots were bought in Berneys in Kilcullen. I got the black silk top hat on eBay and the black lace veil from the Side-Saddle Association in the UK.

“I use brown leather gloves to blend in with the horse’s colours. My central accessory is my cane, handmade in Northern Ireland by Samuel McAteer, which on the right side acts like a leg. I wear a spur on my left foot.”

LIZ PERSSE

Joint-master of Kildare Foxhounds

Though all her family have been involved in showjumping and hunted with the Fermanagh Harriers, Persse only became interested in horses in her 20s, when she married vet Sandy Persse. In the early 1990s she started hunting with the Kildares and became a joint-master in 2008; this is the fifth year she has held the post. “I am one of those people who learned early on not to miss an opportunity and I never imagined I would be asked to be a master,” she says, adding that she loves being out in the country and watching the hounds.

“I’m wearing a navy hunt coat with a red collar with vintage Kildare Hunt brass buttons which belonged to a previous master, Col Darley, in the l930s. The jacket was made to measure in England through Berneys (fifth-generation Irish saddle makers since 1880). The white jodhpurs are Italian and the black leather boots by Cavallo are also from Berneys.

“Dress codes for hunting are quite strict and both riders and horses should be well turned out.”

CLARE MULLIGAN

Showjumper from Dublin

Mulligan has been riding since she was five and has been competing as a showjumper since the age of 14. She now competes every weekend all over Ireland, and at the RDS.

“My navy jacket was made by Mears in the UK, the jodhpurs and shirt are by Kingsland (a Norwegian brand). My boots are Italian and the hat is a GP Airmax helmet. The rules for dress are that you have to wear a jacket and the sleeves have to be a certain length and the jodhpurs must be white. The high white collar should show under the jacket. I think it all looks lovely, it’s smart and I feel well presented when I’m wearing it.”

KATIE DUNPHY

Schoolgirl from Wicklow. Member of Bray branch of the Irish Pony Club

Riding has been a big part of Dunphy’s life since she got her first pony, Joey, at the age of three. She does eventing, rallies, camping, showjumping, cross-country and mounted games. An active member of her Pony Club branch since the age of five, she has competed in all the various disciplines and gone to events in Scotland and Wales.

“Dress and safety codes are important. I’m wearing a navy skull cap with a navy peak from Charles Owen and when showjumping, I wear a back protector. The beige jodhpurs are by Horka and bought in Rhinestone Saddlery in Ashford. The boots are by Aigle and the gaiters are Italian. I wear a shirt and Pony Club tie and a navy tweed jacket (a hand-me-down from my sister), along with a Pony Club badge.”

HEIKE HOLSTEIN

Dressage rider, from Carbery, Co Kildare

Ireland’s most successful international dressage rider, Holsteine grew up with horses and has ridden in three Olympics – in Atlanta, Sydney and Athens – and has been Irish national champion 11 times. She also trains and teaches dressage and event riders, showjumpers, and Helen Kearney who is going to the para Olympics.

“My tails are from Pikeur, a German company, and the top hat was made for me in 1994 by a Dutch company called L’Hiver Holland. My boots are Dutch, by Petrie, and the jodhpurs are Eurostar from Germany. I’m also wearing a tricolour sewn on to the left side of the jacket. Dressage rules are very strict – you have to wear gloves, cream or white jodhpurs, though you can, as in showjumping, modify the jackets a little, like a trim around the collar. Men normally wear black, women navy.”

KATE HARRINGTON

Jockey, from Moone, Co Kildare

An award-winning jockey, Harrington is the daughter of trainer Jessica Harrington and John Harrington. As a premier Irish event rider, she has competed in five European eventing championships in ponies, juniors and young rider categories. Her first major racing win was with legend Moscow Flyer in 2007 at Punchestown.

“I’m wearing my dad’s green and red silks, the family silks, made by Kathleen Kennedy in the Curragh, who also made the silk cover on my hat.

“The white jodhpurs are by Ornella and have my sponsor’s name, TRM, on the leg. Underneath, I wear a lycra vest top with the sponsor’s name on the band. The close-fitting boots are made to measure in England in very light leather and have light soles. It’s all very light, but sometimes chilly in winter.”